Sylvio do Amaral Rocha Filho, presidente da Academia Brasileira de Gastronomia – ABG é amigo da boa comida e amigo do blog. Ele é o Opsófago em Destaque com quem tivemos o privilégio de conversar.

Membro fundador da Academia Brasileira de Gastronomia, Sylvio ocupa a Cadeira nº 5 da ABG, desde 2001. Assumiu a presidência da instituição para o mandato 2014-2018, depois de exercer a vice-presidência. É advogado, Doutor em Direito das Relações Sociais e Mestre em Filosofia do Direito, ambas pela PUC-SP e ex-presidente do Conselho Deliberativo da Associação Brasileira de Bebidas – ABRABE. É o primeiro brasileiro, após a II Guerra Mundial, a receber o título concedido pelo governo francês de Chevalier de L’Ordre du Mérite Agricole, em 1989. Pertence a inúmeras Confrarias Enofílicas, dentre as quais, Chevalier de la Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin – Bourgogne; Commandeur de la Commanderie du Bontemps de Medoc et de Graves, Bordeaux; Chevalier de la Confrerie des Vignerons de Saint Vincent, Mâcon; Cavaleiro da Confraria do Vinho do Porto, Porto, Portugal; Cavaleiro da CONFRARIA DOS ENÓFILOS DA BAIRRADA – Bairrada. É Membro da Comissão Fundadora, Instaladora e Directiva do SOLAR DO VINHO DO PORTO no BRASIL. Escreveu e apresentou um bloco sobre enogastronomia no programa Comando da Madrugada, do jornalista Goulart de Andrade. Em junho de 2017, lançou seu livro Indicações Geográficas – A Proteção Cultural Brasileira na sua Diversidade, pela Editora Almedina.

OPS – Com uma trajetória de 16 anos, ABG vive um momento especial de consolidação do seu papel institucional no cenário da gastronomia brasileira. A que você atribui o interesse atual do setor gastronômico no alinhamento com organismos nacionais e internacionais?

SR – A gastronomia, longe de ser exercício de egos, é uma cultura que faz humano o ser humano. A ninguém é permitido parar de se alimentar. Os organismos, quer nacionais, quer internacionais, auxiliam na ampliação do foco.

OPS – Quantas academias estaduais são filiadas à ABG na atualidade? Quais são elas?

SR – Na presidência da ABG, dei muita ênfase à criação dos capítulos regionais. Temos atuantes Santa Catarina e Rio de Janeiro. Em formação, Pernambuco, São Paulo, Minas Gerais e Pará. Falta muito.

OPS – Você acredita que a criação de academias estaduais facilitará a construção de uma identidade gastronômica brasileira ou a multiplicidade de cozinhas regionais continuará dificultando este processo?

SR – Não há gastronomia brasileira. Não há gastronomia francesa. Há gastronomia típica, regional e peculiar. Só com a criação de capítulos que incentivem e promovam a gastronomia regional, teremos a gastronomia que faça humano o ser humano.

OPS – São Paulo será a Capital Ibero-Americana da Cultura Gastronômica 2018. Fale um pouco sobre esta designação e sua importância para São Paulo e o Brasil?

SR – São Paulo, cadinho do Brasil e do mundo. Santa vocação que agora será conhecida, divulgada como centro ibero-americano da gastronomia em 2018.

OPS – Que tipo de atividades gastronômicas acontecerão ao longo de 2018 em São Paulo para celebrar a capitalidade ibero-americana?

SR – Do campo à mesa, com manifestações musicais, teatrais, de dança, muito bate papo e recepção de outras culturas, tudo como convém a São Paulo.

OPS – Você lançou recentemente o livro “Indicações Geográficas: a proteção do patrimômio cultural brasileiro na sua diversidade”, relevante subsídio para a compreensão deste importante instituto. Há muita confusão quanto ao significado dos termos Indicação Geográfica (IG), Indicação de Procedência (IP) e Denominação de Origem (DO). O que os distingue e, em termos práticos, qual a importância desta classificação?

SR – A IG é o guarda-chuva que abriga a IP e a DO. A IP é declaração de um local que se torna conhecido por exibir um bem que lá nasce – e só lá – por força das condições geográficas (uma laranja, por exemplo). A DO é a declaração de um local que se torna conhecido por exibir um bem que lá nasce – e só lá – por força das condições geográficas e humanas (vinho do Porto, por exemplo). A declaração de uma IG é vital para perpetuar algo com identidade cultural própria. Concede senso de pertencimento a quem lá vive e que passa a se orgulhar de lá viver. Cria autoridade (autoria de algo e sobre algo), tradição (entrega de algo com saber fazer para gerações vindouras) e perpetua a vontade dos pais fundadores daquele local. Melhora a auto-estima. A IG, para mim, é uma cidade estado que legisla para dentro das muralhas visando, íntegra, exibir-se para fora.

SR – O trabalho da ABG é fundamental em reconhecer, registrar, promover e fomentar um bem típico, regional e peculiar próprio do local, que lá existe e sobrevive pela repetição leal, responsável e constante do pessoal sensível que habita a região.

OPS – De uma maneira geral, como você avalia o conteúdo produzido por sites e blogs especializados em gastronomia no Brasil? Estamos no caminho certo ou qual sua expectativa em relação a um conteúdo satisfatório?

SR – O ponto de vista, miradouro que permite a alguém observar algo daquela maneira, é fundamental para a difusão de ideias. Sem o indivíduo forçando o coletivo, o mundo ficaria muito chato com a força do politicamente correto, emanado da vontade geral, a comandar o jogo.

OPS – O que é a gastronomia para você?

SR – Gastronomia não se confunde com culinária, receitas, cocção ou cozinha. O cozinheiro ou o restaurateur faz o quê? Restaura algo, mantendo a essência da matéria-prima intocável e sem agressão. A gastronomia se preocupa, criticamente, a comandar, do campo à mesa, o alimento saudável, prazeroso, sustentável, sem desperdício e que propicie o encontro fraterno e amistoso de seres humanos. Alimentar-se bem e com prazer, sempre em conjunto, é o mote essencial. Nada a ver com frescura ou comida de rico.

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