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PRECISAMOS CONVERSAR SOBRE GLÚTEN

O trigo tem sido um dos alimentos mais demonizados da atualidade. Eleito a Geni da vez, o cereal é associado a inúmeras patologias autoimunes, como artrites, dermatites, lupus e a conhecida doença celíaca. É não para por aí. Por conter substâncias que estimulam o apetite, é frequentemente associado à obesidade. Também se atribui a ele o título de alimento campeão no aumento da glicose no sangue (mais que o açúcar de mesa), favorecendo o desenvolvimento de diabetes. Desgraça pouca é bobagem. Até desordens psíquicas entram na pesada conta dos malefícios que ele pode provocar. Os detratores defendem que a retirada total do trigo da alimentação humana representaria a intervenção isolada mais importante de toda a dieta paleolítica. Nem os pets foram esquecidos nesta guerra para banir o trigo das dietas saudáveis. Tranquilize-se, já existe comida sem glúten para seu cão. Existem também séries de TV, livros, exposições e até uma surreal agência de viagens especializada em férias sem glúten. Tudo para atender um mercado formado por celíacos (1 a 3% da população mundial) e por 97 a 99% restantes de outras pessoas que responsabilizam o glúten por seus problemas gástricos. Resumindo: dizer hoje que você consome glúten é pior que admitir publicamente a prática do Satanismo. Portanto, arrependa-se enquanto é tempo e converta-se voluntariamente à dieta gluten-free. Eventuais resistências podem fazer com que, em breve, resolvam criar uma espécie de GA – Glutenólatras Anônimos. Aí sim, suas papilas estarão irremediavelmente impedidas de sentir o inenarrável gosto de uma pizza calabresa.

“A eliminação do trigo é a estratégia mais incrível e consistentemente efetiva para a melhora da saúde que eu jamais testemunhei em 25 anos de prática de medicina.” William Davis, cardiologista americano, autor do best-seller Barriga de Trigo, 50 semanas entre os mais vendidos na lista do New York Times.

Como temos o hábito de analisar todos os lados das verdades massivamente propagadas, fomos pesquisar a corrente dos defensores do trigo  para conhecer seus argumentos. Descobrimos que, em que pese a veemência do discurso dos haters, a questão da sensibilidade ao glúten é controversa. Uma das vozes dissonantes à sua vilania é a de Joseph A. Murray, professor de Medicina e presidente da Sociedade Norte-Americana para o Estudo da Doença Celíaca. Ele afirma que o “inimigo” não é tão terrível assim, que raramente os médicos diagnosticam sensibilidade ao glúten sem doença celíaca e que muitos sequer acreditam que ela exista. Algumas pessoas realmente enfrentam problemas digestivos ao ingerir produtos à base de trigo. Contudo, os estudos desenvolvidos pelo cientista sugerem que o glúten pode não ser a causa real. O verdadeiro causador seria uma complexa combinação de hidratos de carbono chamados FODMAP, presentes no trigo e em uma grande variedade de alimentos, como mel, leite, sorvetes e algumas frutas. A pesquisa mostra a existência de uma maior probabilidade de que os FODMAP – e não o glúten – desencadeiem distúrbios intestinais, uma vez que as bactérias fermentam regularmente os hidratos de carbono e menos frequentemente as proteínas. Outra possível evidência é que os FODMAP são osmóticos, ou seja, levam água ao trato intestinal, o que pode causar dores abdominais, inchaço e diarreia. Quando os hidratos de carbono entram no intestino delgado sem estarem digeridos, deslocam-se para o cólon, onde as bactérias começam a desfazê-los. Esse processo provoca fermentação, que libera o gás, responsável pelo desconforto. Como a amostragem é pequena, os próprios cientistas pedem cautela na análise dos resultado até que possam avançar mais nos estudos. 

“Primeiro, livram-se do glúten. Depois do milho. Depois da soja. Depois do tomate. Depois do leite. Ao fim de um tempo, já não têm mais nada para comer — e tornam-se proselitistas.” Peter H.R. Green, diretor do Centro da Doença Celíaca da Columbia University

Se as experiências ainda não absolveram totalmente o trigo, talvez fosse melhor conceder-lhe o benefício da dúvida em vez de condená-lo previamente ao degredo alimentar. O que vemos hoje é um cenário de milhões de pessoas completamente convencidas de que se sentem melhor quando não comem glúten — e não querem ouvir nada diferente disso. É compreensível que a posição natural em discussões científicas, sobretudo as relacionadas ao bem-estar e à saúde, seja aderir ao lado que evidencia os riscos de determinado comportamento alimentar. A lógica é simples: se faz mal, melhor deixar de fazer. Mas nada é tão simples quanto parece. Vamos problematizar a coisa. Alguém já pensou na dor do adeus ao pão na chapa da padoca? E à macarronada de domingo na casa da sogra? E à merecida rodada de cerveja com os amigos? E aos bolos, biscoitos e tudo o mais que o glúten deixa gostoso? Sim, quem se descobre celíaco é obrigado a abandonar todas estas delícias. Não tem choro nem vela. É isto ou ter que conviver com enjoos, vômitos e diarreias. Sem previsão de alta, porque ainda não há cura para a doença. Escolha de Sofia, né? Neste caso, não há muito o que fazer a não ser aceitar o infortúnio e banir de vez todos os produtos com glúten da sua dieta. Conforme-se e procure aqueles substitutos meia-boca. É o melhor que está tendo.

Consideremos agora aquele grupo de 97 a 99% de pessoas “não doentes” para as quais evitar o glúten tornou-se uma questão cultural, uma escolha dietética associada a um novo estilo de vida, muitas delas utilizando o autodiagnóstico de intolerância para justificar a mudança.  Lembremos que as escolhas alimentares são orientadas pelo gosto físico e pelo gosto cultural, conforme já falamos em outro post (clique aqui para ler). Para este grupo, a apresentadora sorridente e simpática da TV tem dicas capazes de diminuir a sofrência causada pela abstinência de glúten. Basta trocar o macarrão tradicional por espaguete de abobrinha, por exemplo. Ou fazer bolo com farinha Teff, muito comum na Etiópia, por exemplo. A pessoa se insere no novo padrão, fica feliz, se sente saudável e jura de pé junto que foi a dieta gluten-free que lhe proporcionou bem-estar.

“Alimentos sem glúten geralmente têm menos fibra e outros micronutrientes, o que os torna menos nutritivos, além de custarem mais. Pessoas sem doença celíaca devem reconsiderar a decisão de limitar seu consumo de glúten principalmente no que diz respeito à prevenção de doenças crônicas como o diabetes.” Geng Zong, pesquisador da Escola de Saúde Pública da Universidade de Harvard

Como diria Guimarães Rosa, “pão ou pães é questão de opiniães”. Nós temos as nossas. Convenhamos, para algumas coisas existem alternativas. Para pão, pizza, macarrão e cerveja sem glúten, não tem Credicard que dê jeito. Pois bem, se não dá para mudar sua genética na presente encarnação, que tal editar geneticamente o trigo para retirá-lo do mármore do inferno onde foi confinado pelos verdadeiramente celíacos, e por pessoas que só recentemente descobriram que o glúten é o cramulhão na versão proteína? A novidade é que cientistas espanhóis conseguiram modificar a estrutura do glúten para isolar parte da gliadina (principal proteína do trigo), e assim desenvolver um cereal menos nocivo para os celíacos. Em testes preliminares, o novo trigo despertou uma reação imune 85% inferior que a do trigo convencional, sem alteração no sabor dos produtos feitos com ele (aleluia!). 

“A ciência ainda está arranhando a verdade sobre a sensibilidade não-celíaca. Ainda falta muita pesquisa para termos resultados reconfirmados e consistentes. Enquanto isso, as pessoas não devem fazer uma dieta sem glúten indiscriminadamente, para não prejudicar a microbiota. Cereais como o trigo contêm substâncias que protegem essa população de bactérias benéficas.” Olga Amancio, presidente da SBAN (Sociedade Brasileira de Alimentação e Nutrição)

  O estudo ainda precisa ser aprimorado, mas não deixa de ser uma notícia alvissareira, sobretudo para os celíacos. Quanto ao outro grupo, restam dúvidas. A realidade é que, para muitos, o glúten deixou de ser visto como aquilo que realmente é: um composto de proteínas naturais presentes em diversos cereais.  Hoje, ele compõe uma cesta de substâncias (glutamato, benzoato, corantes) e produtos (carne vermelha, frituras, doces) supostamente hostis ao estilo de vida saudável que se quer padronizar. Por esta razão, precisam ser afastados da dieta humana. As pessoas parecem não perceber que a alimentação deve ser compreendida a partir de uma abordagem sistêmica. O trigo não é composto só de glúten e o pão não é composto só de trigo. O problema em consumir alimentos que contêm glúten pode não estar na proteína em si, mas sim em seus outros componentes. Exemplificando: alguns produtos ricos em glúten são muito energéticos. Como a energia é armazenada no organismo em forma de gordura, o consumo exagerado desses alimentos pode levar ao aumento de peso e a distúrbios cardiovasculares.

Por mais que se queira culpar o glúten por todos os males do planeta, algumas verdades precisam ser ditas, de forma clara, objetiva e sem anestesia:

  1. Não é o glúten que engorda, mas a quantidade de pão, pizza, cerveja, salgadinhos, bolos e biscoitos que você ingere.
  2. A dieta humana mudou muito nos últimos 50 anos, mas a sua genética permaneceu a mesma. Pense nisso antes de jogar toda a culpa numa proteína natural.
  3. Pode ser que suas desordens digestivas e intestinais não sejam causadas por uma proteína, isoladamente. Talvez a proteína contida no glúten esteja reagindo com outra substância existente na sua dieta. Considere a possibilidade.
  4. Na dúvida, procure um médico. Não caia nessa de decidir comer ou deixar de comer alimentos com glúten pelo que você viu na internet. Neste post que você acabou de ler, inclusive.
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