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VALFRÍU, O QUEIJO MAIS CARO DO MUNDO

A peça de queijo artesanal mais cara da história foi arrematada no final de agosto, durante concurso realizado anualmente em Arena Cabrales, na região das Astúrias, Espanha. O queijo Cabrales, produzido pela fábrica de queijo Valfríu de Tielve, carrega não apenas o rótulo de Melhor Queijo do Mundo, como também um preço recorde. Jamais alguém havia pago tanto por um queijo: exatos € 14.300 ou cerca de R$ 73.000 por 2kgs do produto. Por trás dos números e do estrelato repentino que o concurso lhe proporcionou, existe a trajetória de uma família que, há seis gerações, permanecem fieis ao ofício de produzir queijo artesanal de três leites crus.

Os donos da Queijaria Valfríu não têm dúvidas sobre o segredo do sucesso: “leite bom e dedicação”. Salud e Francisco Herrero, atuais responsáveis pelo negócio de família, explicam o processo de produção. A fabricação do queijo Cabrales começa com o depósito dos três leites (vaca, cabra e ovelha) em tanque frio. Na queijaria, ele volta a ser aquecido a uma temperatura entre 22 e 26 graus.  Nesse ponto, o coalho é adicionado e a mistura vai sendo mexida. Em seguida – sempre artesanalmente – são realizadas a drenagem, a salga, a secagem e, finalmente, a maturação. Os queijos padrão são submetidos a uma maturação mínima de sessenta dias em caverna.  Já os queijos especiais permanecem mais de oito meses a uma temperatura ambiente entre 5 e 8 graus.

O processo se repete desde que o bisavô dos atuais proprietários começou a fabricar o produto. Hoje, são Salud e seu irmão Francisco que ensinam o ofício aos netos para que a tradição não se perca, apesar das muitas dificuldades do setor. O paradoxo é que, em que pesem as dificuldades, a demanda só vem aumentando. Foram 22.000 quilos de queijo produzidos em 2017. Tudo indica que o prêmio e o recorde contribuirão para a divulgação da marca, gerando uma procura ainda maior.

Queijo Minas Artesanal x Queijo Artesanal de Minas

Enquanto isso, ao sul do Equador – mais precisamente no estado em que o queijo é um símbolo de identidade cultural – a saga continua. Se Salud e Francisco Herrero vivessem em Minas Gerais, o mundo não estaria falando deles. Isto porque o Cabrales Valfríu não poderia ser produzido aqui. A legislação vigente não permite a maturação de queijo em caverna nem a produção a partir da mistura de leite de animais diferentes. Aliás, a legislação, na forma como se encontra hoje, só reconhece como Queijo Minas Artesanal aquele produzido com leite de vaca. Está mais do que na hora de modernizarmos a legislação, retirando os impecilhos legais que dificultam a vida do produtor mineiro. Não adianta ficar só batendo palmas para os prêmios que o nosso queijo ganha no exterior. É preciso defendê-lo, apoiá-lo e promovê-lo, afastando os obstáculos normativos que o jogam na clandestinidade.

 

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