Interrompemos nossas férias para uma edição extraordinária do Ops.

Neste 30 de dezembro, não poderíamos deixar de registrar as comemorações do centenário de nascimento do saudoso Seu Olympio, garçom que entrou para o Guinness Book como o mais antigo profissional em atividade. Fazemos parte de uma geração que teve o privilégio de ser servida e protegida por ele. A Cantina do Lucas – símbolo da resistência nos “anos de chumbo” e reduto boêmio da produção intelectual e cultural da história de BH – foi tombada pelo Patrimônio Histórico e Cultural, em 1997. Seu Olympio, que trabalhou no restaurante desde a inauguração, em 1962, pode ser considerado uma espécie de “Patrimônio Humano” do Lucas e de BH.

Foto: Cantina do Lucas

Capricorniano típico, com seus olhos de águia, identificava os pseudoclientes que frequentavam o restaurante para espionar os “inimigos do regime”. Daí veio sua frase famosa, repetida com orgulho incontido: “julgavam-se anônimos, mas eu fazia a contraespionagem”. Quando isto acontecia, chegava à mesa dos potenciais espionados e dizia com o garbo e a verve irônica que lhe era peculiar: “hoje não tem filet à cubana”, senha para que o cuidado com as palavras fosse redobrado.

Nas nossas melhores memórias, está também a atenção especial que ele conferia aos estudantes na hora da refeição. Mesmo servindo pratos generosos e com preços moderados, muitos secundaristas durangos não tinham condição de frequentar a casa com assiduidade. Nós, moradores de uma modesta pensão no vizinho Edifício Recarey, invejávamos a elite das repúblicas do San Remo e do Maletta. Na década de 1970, o Lucas era um lugar de ostentação, onde só nos era permitido conviver com a nata da intelectualidade em duas circunstâncias: nos primeiros dias da mesada ou em comemorações especiais. Por saber disto, Seu Olympio fazia de tudo para que o nosso minguado dinheiro rendesse. Mandava caprichar ainda mais nas porções e, inúmeras vezes, transformava sua merecida gorjeta em mais uma rodada de cerveja. Sempre com a providencial recomendação de que era preciso estudar porque, no Lucas, só eram aceitos bêbados cultos.

Filet Olympio

A última vez que estivemos com Seu Olympio não foi no Lucas. Era 2002, um ano antes de sua morte. Estávamos com a turma do “6 e 1”, nome dado ao grupo que se encontrava, todos os dias, no Pelicano. No bar, conhecido como um anexo do Lucas, o ponto era batido um minuto depois do fim da jornada de trabalho. Acompanhado do filho, com quem passou a morar depois da morte da esposa, Seu Olympio sempre passava pelo Maletta para rever os amigos. Foi nosso encontro de despedida.

A história do Lucas se mistura à história de BH; e a história do Lucas e de BH se misturam à história de Seu Olympio. Da simbiose virtuosa das histórias de BH, do Lucas e do Sr. Olympio, veio a ideia da “Semana do Centenário”. De 28 de dezembro a 6 de janeiro, o prato que leva seu nome vem acompanhado de um copinho para cachaça estampado com vivas ao centenário. Preparado com arroz de açafrão, pedaços de filet, ovo, molho madeira, brócolis e a melhor batata palha do universo, o Filet Olympio é o retrato das lembranças de quem conheceu o homenageado: rico, farto e delicioso. E continua a ser servido por seus discípulos como manda a tradição dos garçons da velha guarda: com dois talheres.

Por tudo que Seu Olympio representa em termos de postura profissional, mas, sobretudo, pela humanidade e defesa intransigente das liberdades democráticas que caracterizavam sua conduta, nossa singela homenagem.

Desce mais uma rodada porque hoje tem Filet Olympio.

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