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O CORRE CUTIA DO SETOR GASTRONÔMICO

31 de janeiro de 2018
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Quem teve infância antes de existir internet, principalmente se passou a infância no interior, deve se lembrar de uma brincadeira muito tradicional chamada Corre Cutia. Funcionava assim: as crianças ficavam sentadas em círculo, com exceção de uma, que era o pegador. Com um lenço na mão, ela andava lentamente em volta do círculo enquanto todas cantavam:

Corre cutia de noite e de dia
Debaixo da cama da Dona Maria
Lencinho branco caiu no chão
Quem roubou foi o ladrão
Menina bonita do meu coração
Titica de galinha, cocô de leitão.

No meio da música, o pegador deixava cair o lenço, disfarçadamente, atrás de um dos jogadores. Quando a criança percebia que o lenço estava atrás dela, começava a perseguição ao pegador, que tinha que correr para ocupar o lugar que ficou vago. Se fosse apanhado antes de chegar ao lugar vazio, o pegador continuava nessa função. Mas, se conseguisse ocupar o lugar vago, era o jogador escolhido que passava a ser o pegador. Moral da história: quem bobeasse, ficava fora da roda, pois não havia lugar para todos.

Em função do caráter pedagógico, tomamos a brincadeira infantil para uma representação metafórica das disputas travadas no âmbito do setor gastronômico.

A gastronomia é uma das poucas expressões culturais que não provoca desavenças ou antagonismos. Com efeito, as pessoas geralmente se sentem representados pela sua culinária e têm orgulho dela. Por isso, a comida talvez seja o mais significativo elemento de coesão identitária dos seres humanos, um elo entre diversas culturas. Entretanto, quando a pauta envolve a cooperação entre  os diversos segmentos da cadeia, as unanimidades pacíficas cedem espaço a debates, reclamações e ressentimentos.

A construção de uma agenda consensual no mundo da cozinha tem sido buscada há décadas, por diferentes atores, sem alcançar a necessária consolidação. A história se repete de modo recorrente: no meio da obra, pedreiros, mestres de obra, engenheiros, arquitetos, financiadores e demais envolvidos não se entendem sobre o projeto, inviabilizando a entrega. Troca-se o grupo e um novo projeto é iniciado. Os motivos das sucessivas soluções de continuidade são muitos, mas estão invariavelmente associados a estratégias competitivas predatórias: puxadas de tapete, apropriação de ideias, supremacia de interesses individuais ou corporativos, entre outros. Mas, afinal,  é possível agir colaborativamente num ambiente competitivo? É possível competir e colaborar ao mesmo tempo? Será que a competição realmente elimina comportamentos sociais, como colaboração, solidariedade, respeito e ética? Primeiramente, vamos considerar algumas questões genéricas para depois retomarmos a especificidade da gastronomia.

O polêmico biólogo evolucionista, Richard Dawkins, é autor do best-seller O Gene Egoísta. Nele, o intelectual defende que comportamentos sociais competitivos entre seres vivos são fruto de uma predisposição biológica. Ainda assim, reconhece que a competição entre humanos não é um determinismo incontornável, tendo em vista que os indivíduos podem se emancipar da tirania dos genes, tornando-se altruístas. Isto porque, diferentemente dos genes, as pessoas são dotadas de sentimentos, vontades e livre-arbítrio.

Mesmo inerente ao ser humano, a competição não pode ser considerada um componente exclusivo de determinado sistema político, já que se faz presente – com mais ou menos intensidade – em todos eles. As sociedades capitalistas, entretanto, vão além. Elas defendem que a disputa é benéfica para a evolução do mercado e que o estímulo ao sucesso provoca reações saudáveis. Se isto é verdade, fato é que decorre dela também inegáveis efeitos colaterais. Pessoas muito competitivas tendem a colocar o sucesso individual acima do bem comum, o que pode tornar as relações egoístas e desleais. Algumas chegam a introjetar a disputa de tal forma que passam a exercê-la até quando não há ninguém competindo. Percebe-se que o problema não está na competição em si – nem nos genes que compõem o DNA humano – mas em sua manifestação exacerbada. É o acirramento que gera ambientes hostis à realização de trabalhos em equipe.

Transportemos estas considerações agora ao mundo da cozinha. A cadeia de valor da gastronomia é grande e diversa. Seu crescimento tem potencial para trazer à sociedade conceitos de equidade, sustentabilidade social e oportunidade de desenvolvimento para todos. Entretanto, o que deveria ser democrático, acaba se concentrando na mão de poucos, quase sempre os que menos precisam. Isto não chega a ser novidade, pois a gastronomia é um microcosmo do universo no qual está inserida. Nela, como em outras atividades econômicas, sempre há grupos que conhecem atalhos e se beneficiam deles para acessar as oportunidades. Com isto, estabelece-se não apenas uma competição interna – dentro do mesmo segmento, mas também uma competição transversal – entre um segmento e outro. Afinal, como lembra a máxima popular, se o fubá é pouco, meu pirão primeiro.

Este cenário faz com que o mundo da cozinha se divida entre os incluídos e os excluídos do sistema. Uns se perfilam aos privilegiados na tentativa de identificar os atalhos. Outros os consideram verdadeiros “espalha-rodinha”, pessoas de quem se deve manter distância em nome da ética. Há também os que tocam seu negócio sem se importar com o ambiente conflagrado das desavenças paroquiais.

É preciso sair da superfície do problema e enfrentar sua complexidade para além do contra, do a favor ou do tanto faz, sob pena de assistirmos a perpetuação da discórdia ou da inércia. Há muito storytelling para pouca efetividade neste discurso. Baixar as facas não pressupõe a utopia de um setor econômico sem competição. A disputa existe e é melhor fazer dela uma aliada para que a causa progrida. A competição colaborativa pode ser a solução. Nela, os competidores disputam e, ao mesmo tempo, apoiam as iniciativas dos outros. É como um barco com vários remadores onde todos querem ser o mais forte. Quanto mais disputa houver, mais rápido o barco chega ao destino.

Duas importantes lições podem ser tiradas da analogia:

  • Os mais fortes podem muito, mas não podem tudo;

  • Os mais fracos precisam dos mais fortes para alcançar seu objetivo.

Na gastronomia, entretanto, a competição colaborativa requer a observância de algumas regras específicas.

  • Reconhecer quem veio antes e abriu caminho até o estágio atual. Não se pode fazer tábula rasa, tampouco apropriar-se do trabalho realizado como se fosse de domínio público.
  • Jamais ultrapassar os limites da civilidade com atitudes que beiram a desonestidade. A competição não precisa gerar comportamentos antiéticos.
  • A experiência mostra que quem copia, melhora. Aprender com as boas práticas de outros setores, reproduzi-las e aperfeiçoá-las é uma forma de encurtar caminho.
  • O sucesso exige etapas sucessivas de vitórias. É tolice destruir o que foi feito para valorizar o que se pretende fazer, pois o novo não se firma sobre os escombros do antigo. Olhar sempre para trás para seguir adiante.
  • Há espaço para propostas diferentes dirigidas a um mesmo público. O competidor não é um inimigo. Quando segmentos interligados não cooperam entre si, todos perdem. Voltar às lições do ensino fundamento para lembrar como funciona um sistema de vasos comunicantes.
  • A melhor forma de vencer o antagonismo dos interesses individuais é buscar uma visão comum de futuro. Enquanto a gastronomia precisar de Darth Vaders, muito pouco irá progredir.
  • Qualificar-se. No mercado competitivo, quem está atualizado consegue enxergar mais oportunidades.
  • Aprender a não depender do mecenato, seja ele público ou privado. A dependência financeira obriga a realização de concessões por vezes indesejadas.

Dito isto, concluímos que a construção de um setor gastronômico forte, coeso e colaborativo é trabalhoso, mas não é uma quimera. Basta olhar pelo retrovisor da história e aprender as muitas lições deixadas pelos bons projetos que engrossaram a lista dos voos de galinha. Afinal, tal como os ovos, os bons projetos também goram. Mais do que nunca, é hora de faxinar a cozinha. Enquanto isto não acontecer – tal como na brincadeira do Corre Cutia – o setor gastronômico continuará produzindo muita titica de galinha e cocô de leitão.

 

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