SERRO, OS SABORES DA CIDADE ENCANTADA QUE PAROU NO TEMPO II
O registro abaixo é do segundo convescote no Serro. O primeiro foi em 2017, ocasião em que cedemos o conteúdo para outro blog. Para contextualizar o leitor e conhecer mais a região, recomendamos a leitura do primeiro registro antes deste. Clique aqui para acessar.
É sabido que a história de um povo pode ser contada de diversas formas. Uma delas é através das suas manifestações culturais. Por isso, escolhemos a maneira literalmente mais gostosa de aprendê-la: a gastronomia.
De fato, voltar ao Serro é sempre uma oportunidade de conhecer um pouco mais sobre a história de Minas. Não foi diferente desta vez. Partimos cheios de vontade de revisitar lugares e reencontrar pessoas com as quais nos conectamos em outros convescotes. Mas não deu. Foram tantas as novas possibilidades, que preferimos deixar a maior parte das antigas experiências para uma já prometida futura viagem ao Serro, exclusivamente para os necessários revivals.
Claro que antes de ir procuramos ouvir quem conhece Minas não só direito como também pelo avesso: o amigo e opsófago Eduardo Avelar. Em razão das dicas recebidas, organizamos o roteiro indo por Curvelo e voltando por Conceição do Mato Dentro.
As primeiras paradas foram em Milho Verde e São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, distritos que já havíamos visitado no convescote anterior. Em Milho Verde, a parada foi só para tomar um fôlego. Precisávamos
seguir até São Gonçalo para ir ao Bar do Pescoço.
Reza a lenda que ninguém pode dizer que conhece o distrito sem ter comido a batata frita com alho servida no bar. De fato, só ela já valeria todo o perrengue que passamos com nosso sedan nutella numa estrada de terra raiz. Driblando um estresse aqui outro ali, chegamos bem na hora do almoço. Famintos e sedentos, foi como ter chegado ao Éden. Teve cerveja geladíssima, petiscos inigualáveis, almoço em cima do fogão a lenha e teve o Pescoço. Conhecendo o dono deste bar, a gente entende por que existem outros tão ranzinzas. É que toda a simpatia ficou concentrada no Pescoço. Da chegada à saída, foi só gentileza conosco. Além da batata frita e da simpatia do dono, impossível não registrar a malagueta seca com alho, que passou de coadjuvante a protagonista assim que chegou à mesa.
Um pulo de São Gonçalo ao Serro e chegamos à casa da Maguinha, nosso pouso nas duas noites seguintes. Nossa anfitriã e guia pelos atrativos serranos é mais um daqueles exemplos de pessoas que fizeram o movimento de retorno da cidade grande para o interior. Saiu do mercado financeiro para se reconciliar com a vida pacata, oferecendo uma opção de bed & breakfast na linda e tradicional casa da família.
Chegamos até ela pela valiosa indicação do amigo Tulio Madureira, sempre disposto a abrir caminhos a quem se dispõe a colocar o Serro no lugar de destaque turístico que a cidade merece. O turista agradece. O que mais pode encantá-lo do que vivenciar o cotidiano do destino que visita? Compartilhar a rotina da família – a mãe, Dona Terezinha, e os filhos, Luis Felipe e Maria Fernanda – foi, sem dúvida, o ponto alto da viagem. Confortavelmente instalados, com calor humano e prosa boa, descansamos os ossos para a última atividade do dia: uma esticada ao Restaurante da Dodoia & Juninho.
Dia seguinte, café da manhã maravilha à mesa, mais prosa boa, e saída para a primeira atividade do dia: visita a uma cachaçaria artesanal. Na fazenda, fomos recebidos pela Marilene e os filhos, Ana Cecília e Matheus. Alvanato, o marido, estava na lida e só nos encontrou depois. Marilene nos mostrou a casa típica das antigas fazendas mineiras, um aconchegante sobrado com varanda voltada para o nascente.
Contou das habilidades da sogra, Dona Salete, doceira de mão cheia, que estava ausente naquele dia. Nos levou para ver o moinho d’água, que funciona normalmente. Não pudemos vê-lo em atividade por causa do pouco volume de água, resultado do período de estiagem. Chegamos ao alambique, quando Alvanato se juntou ao grupo para explicar o processo de produção. O alambique não é a atividade econômica principal da fazenda, voltada à criação de gado leiteiro e de corte. 
Foi recentemente reformado, com instalação de tanques de inox para estocar cachaça com 1, 2 e 3 anos de guarda. A joia da coroa, uma cachaça sem madeira, com 10 anos de guarda, não é comercializada sob nenhuma hipótese. Fica estocada num pequeno tonel, de onde alguns mililitros são extraídos para presentear uns poucos privilegiados. Felizmente, era um dia de sorte e fomos um deles.
Contou das habilidades da sogra, Dona Salete, doceira de mão cheia, que estava ausente naquele dia. Nos levou para ver o moinho d’água, que funciona normalmente. Não pudemos vê-lo em atividade por causa do pouco volume de água, resultado do período de estiagem. Chegamos ao alambique, quando Alvanato se juntou ao grupo para explicar o processo de produção. O alambique não é a atividade econômica principal da fazenda, voltada à criação de gado leiteiro e de corte. Foi recentemente reformado, com instalação de tanques de inox para estocar cachaça com 1, 2 e 3 anos de guarda. A joia da coroa, uma cachaça sem madeira, com 10 anos de guarda, não é comercializada sob nenhuma hipótese. Fica estocada num pequeno tonel, de onde alguns mililitros são extraídos para presentear uns poucos privilegiados. Felizmente, era um dia de sorte e fomos um deles.
De volta à estrada, o próximo destino foi a Fazenda e Queijaria Vitória, de Eduardo José de Melo, produtor do queijo Ivituruy. Sua esposa Marina – que extravasa simpatia e amabilidade – nos recebeu e fez sala até a chegada do Eduardo, que também estava na lida diária. A conversa rolou solta e perdemos a noção do tempo, entre uns (muuuitos) queijins e cachacinhas. Quando assustamos, já era meio da tarde. Hora de ver in loco como se faz um queijo cuja qualidade enche de orgulho os mineiros. Tivemos uma aula presencial, da ordenha à maturação. Algo para se guardar com carinho nos escaninhos da memória. Depois dela, fica fácil compreender a formação identitária da região, bem como a importância do primeiro bem registrado como Patrimônio Cultural e Imaterial de Minas Gerais neste processo.A princípio, o almoço seria apenas para cumprir a liturgia das refeições cotidianas. Mas, aí, a gente voltou no Restaurante da Dodoia & Juninho. Mas, aí, tinha um retardatário almoçando um mexidão. Crescemos o olho e encaramos o bruto, devidamente acompanhado por um indefectível zoiudo. Bem alimentados, mas com a locomoção e o raciocínio meio comprometidos, fomos para a casa de Maguinha fazer a necessária siesta.
Já recuperados, saímos em busca das indefectíveis compritchas. Entre encomendas e consumo próprio, a shopping time foi bastante intensa. Primeira parada no Sabor da Roça, tentação consumista já identificada no convescote anterior e novamente responsável por significativa baixa nas finanças do casal. De lá, fomos ao Trem-ruá, grife do queijo, do Tulio Madureira. Mais queijos e uma tábua personalizada para causar entre os amigos. Novamente de bolsos vazios e porta-malas cheio, #partiupracinha para uma noite de Bolerata. O evento foi criado em 2002 e apresenta serenatas e boleros executados nas sacadas do casario colonial do centro histórico da cidade. Uma variação da Vesperata de Diamantina, menos turística e mais democrática. Gostamos muito.
Manhã seguinte, hora de arrumar as trouxas e voltar. Outro café da manhã irrepreensível, um último bate-papo com as anfitriãs serranas, e finalmente pegamos a estrada com destino a Conceição do Mato Dentro. A missão era conhecer Dona Lélia, verdadeiro repositório da cultura gastronômica mineira, para registrar um tesouro culinário: o pastel de angu. Sem endereço, perguntamos por ela em um posto de gasolina. “Dona Lélia do pastel? Claro que sei”, foi a resposta do frentista. Chegar foi fácil. Mal sabíamos que a dificuldade seria virar as costas para tanta sabedoria depois. Quando o assunto foi seu ofício, conta que aprendeu e preservou a receita de sua mãe, que por sua vez aprendeu com a escrava que a criou. A fama da iguaria ultrapassou a Serra do Espinhaço e conquistou paladares, fazendo com que a campainha não descanse com turistas o tempo todo à procura dos pastéis. Dona de uma impressionante memória, Lélia contou casos, relembrou fatos históricos e confidenciou, emocionada, passagens da vida em família. Os anos ao lado do companheiro Antônio foram tão marcantes que ela resolveu fazer-lhe uma homenagem insólita, mas que faz todo o sentido. Depois do seu falecimento, teceu uma toalha de mesa com aplicação de quadros das camisas de linho do marido. O motivo? Para que ele estivesse sempre à mesa com a família. Como não amar tanta ternura?
A última parada antes de retornar à nossa base foi no Chapa’rrals, em Santana do Riacho, Serra do Cipó. Conhecido de outras passagens, o restaurante oferece uma moquecada de camarão com pupunha digna de incontidos suspiros. Nada melhor para encerrarmos o prazeroso convescote, deixando aquele gostinho de quero mais.
Até a volta, Serro!
O blog arcou com todos os custos da viagem, não aceitando descontos, gratuidades ou presentes de qualquer natureza.
Este é blog não tem fins comerciais. Para informações relacionadas à comercialização dos produtos e serviços apresentados neste post, sugerimos contato direto com os fornecedores por meio dos hiperlinks.
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